The biggest adventure of my life other than my life in general. I plan on walking almost 500 miles in 5 weeks, beginning in St. Jean Pied de Port in France and ending at Santiago de Compostelo in Spain. I will have very limited access to Wi-Fi.
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| Above: Diane leaving her home in New York City, headed to the airport. |
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Day 1 (4-28-14 & 4-29-14): New York City to St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Honto, France
I left New York City on the 28th and flew to Paris, France and then to Madrid, Spain. From Madrid I went to St. Jean Pied de Port in France by bus and taxi. St. Jean Pied de Port is where I started my hike. After all the travel and time change it was 4-29-14 when I got to St. Jean Pied de Port. After leaving St. Jean Pied de Port, I hiked up the Pyrenees mountains, it's a very steep climb. Very scenic; some rain, some sun, some clouds. All is well. I stayed the first night at the Auberge Ferme Ithurburia in Honto, France, the auberge had a cafe and did an evening meal and a breakfast. I had originally planned to stay the first night at the Albergue Orisson in Orisson, but they were full.
Day 2 (4-30-14): Honto, France to Roncesvalles, Spain
On the second day I left Honto and arrived in Roncesvalles, Spain, where I had reservations at the Albergue de Roncesvalles for the night. I was tired, wet, sore and proud. One of my trail friends calls me Rocket Diane. Before it started raining; I saw griffon vultures, wild horses, big white cows and black faces sheep. Most of my fellow peregrinos were retired. More men than women and a lot of Italians who love Papa Francis.
Below is a Google map done by a friend showing my hike so far, from St. Jean Pied de Port to Honto (where I spent my first night) to Roncesvalles, Spain (where I spent my 2nd night)
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| Above: Map-St. Jean Pied de Port to Honto to Roncesvalles, Spain |
Below is a photo of the pilgrim mass I went to while in Roncesvalles. This was at the Monastery of Roncesvalles next to where I stayed at the Albergue de Roncesvalles.
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Diane
I wish you the very best of luck. Here to inspire you are the opening lines of Chaucer's Canterbury Tales.
WHAN that Aprille with his shoures soote
The droghte of Marche hath perced to the roote,
And bathed every veyne in swich licour,
Of which vertu engendred is the flour;
Whan Zephirus eek with his swete breeth
Inspired hath in every holt and heeth
The tendre croppes, and the yonge sonne
Hath in the Ram his halfe cours y-ronne,
And smale fowles maken melodye,
That slepen al the night with open ye,
So priketh hem nature in hir corages:
Than longen folk to goon on pilgrimages....
You are our modern pilgrim, and I look forward to hearing Diane's Tale.
Alan Draeger
xoxo
After leaving Roncescalles I arrived in Larrasoana, Spain in the afternoon on the 3rd day. There was no room in the Albergue Municipal where I had hoped to say so I stayed in a woman's home (Casa Elita); sharing the room with a nice Italian man by the name of Gian Carlo. They have no ATM and no Wi-Fi in this town of 200. I hiked this far today to be able to spend some time in Pamplona tomorrow. It was raining when I left Roncesvalles this morning; the trail was steep and wet and my feet hurt now.
This pilgrimage is not something you can imagine. So many fellow peregrinos because it was a cold winter here and today is a holiday. It may thin out Monday. Today I saw big brown cows, White Faced sheep and many, many wild flowers; purple, yellow and white. I heard lots of birds, one kept chirping "Buen Camino;" also cowbells galore and crickets.
Below is a photo of the bridge coming into Larrasoana over the Rio Arga.
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| Above: The bridge coming into Larrasoana over the Rio Arga. |
Below is a photo of an encouraging stop sign I passed between Roncesvalles and Larrasoana.
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| Above: An encouraging stop sign between Roncesvalles and Larrasoana. |
Days 4 & 5 (Friday & Saturday, 5-1-14 & 5-2-14) (Larrasoana to Pamplona to Puente la Reina)
Here are more observations from my Camino de Santiago trip, for Days 4 & 5 (Larrasoana to Pamplona to Puente la Reina). I’m writing this on a very clunky rented-computer, which costs 1 Euro for 20 minutes.
I can tell whether I am going uphill, downhill or level by what hurts. I also learned the best thing for hot spots and even blisters is duct tape and the best lightweight clothespins are the thingies from the bread wrappers.
On my way into Pamplona, a man took my photo (see below below) by the Magdalena Bridge (El Puente de la Magdalena) and he told me so much about Pamplona, but it was in Spanish so I only understood a portion of it. it was the Magdalena Bridge. Magdalena is my icon as I find her everywhere I go.
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| Above: Diane at the Magdalena Bridge. |
In Pamplona, I went to the Cathedral and to the monument to the running of the bulls (see photo below) and the post office and the pilgrim store to buy a journal.
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| Above: Monument to the running of the bulls |
On my way out of the city, I stopped to text and lost my pink bandana. I am lost without it and do you think they would sell a pink bandana on the Camino, I don´t think so. I stayed in a nice place in Cizur Menor, the Albergue de Maribel, and did laundry and ate with some very fun folks. We had a pilgrim dinner, which was French fries and some meat, and an appetizer of paella with not a lot of seafood, but tasty and of course red wine. It was fun. I used my pink silk sleeping bag liner again and my sleeping bag, so that was all good. I have used everything I brought. It was great to do laundry, I went to dinner with only my jacket and nothing under it because I washed everything else, fortunately it was cool.
It was supposed to rain today (Saturday) when I left for Puente la Reina, but I got lucky. It did it all before I left and the sun came out later. I took a photo (see below) at the peak of Alto Del Perdon (Mount of Forgiveness in English) that I had to cross, where all your sins are forgiven when you go over it. By the time I got there, it was sunny.
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| Above: Diane on top of Alto del Perdon with Monument to the Pilgrim's Way. |
I got very excited climbing to the peak as all you could see were wheat fields and I thought I saw Crop Circles, but alas they were only farmer trails. I noticed that in the lower parts the wheat was formed but still very green, when I got to the top the kernels had not formed yet.
Spain has a huge wind turbine energy source and I saw hundreds today. Wind is the third biggest energy source in Spain, at about 18% in 2012 according to one online source. See photo below.
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| Above: Wind Turbines on top of Alto del Perdon. |
The downhill hiking was difficult on the knees, but not as scary as the last couple of days, as it wasn´t muddy. The guidebooks even say it is a difficult trip because the stones can make your twist your ankle. I didn´t twist an ankle and I loved my sticks (hiking poles) and my boots.
After the mountain peak, I walked for a while and finally came to a nice bodega where I stopped and asked for what I thought was a potato quiche-ie thing, but I had ordered toast instead, so I had another jamón (ham) and bread sandwich. Now I know to order not a tostada, but a tortilla.
I hurt so I didn´t take a detour to see a Knight´s Templar ruin, and you know how much I hurt since I didn´t do that. But I met up with the folks from dinner and walked with a guy who is a professional herbalist from England. We had a delightful conversation and great observations to which I had a few things to contribute and I forgot my aches.
When we got to Puente la Reina everyone stayed at the first albergue, but I had reservations at one a little further, the Albergue Santiago Apostolin, so I went on. I felt very lonely after such good company and did a whole going into the garden to eat worms routine in my head, got lost and walked at least 3 more kilometers, but finally found the albergue. There are some folks here that I´ve previously met, so all is well.
Speaking of worms, I see worms and slugs on the trail all the time. Is this my time to get friendly with the slimy part of the universe?
As I walk and hurt, I keep saying to myself, I am a spiritual being having a physical experience; this body is the vehicle of my soul and will carry me on. Many people say they meet God on the Camino, I haven´t found my Bodhi Tree yet (Buddhist bit about enlightenment) I think I am almost to the place where the business of the embodiment is becoming routine, so that will leave space for some spiritual download.
I will say that whenever I have felt that I got lost on my hike (except for this afternoon), a sign or someone has directed me the right way. In Pamplona, twice I wasn´t sure which way to go and total strangers came up and pointed me in the right direction.
I stayed at the Albergue Santiago Apostolin in Puente la Reina Saturday night, just across the Dona Mayor Bridge in the photo below.
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| Above: Dona Mayor Bridge on the way to the Albergue Santiago Apostolin in Puente la Reina. |
This summary is far from complete, but I am going to send it before my 3rd Euro for this clunky rented-computer runs out.
Day 6 (5-4-14): Puente la Reina to Irache
Today (Sunday) I left Puente la Reina and walked to the Bodegas Irache where they have the fountain with wine. There was a tourist bus there and the guide said "...make way for the pilgrims...," so they all stood back and let us pilgrims have a drink first. My pilgrims friends were walking further but I decided to stop in Irache for the night, so I am alone tonight; kind of sad but that is okay, it's nice to not be in a dormitory.
Attached is a photo of a stone cross on the way into Estella, which I passed through today (Sunday) on my way to Irache.
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| Above: Stone cross on the way into Estella. |
Day 7 (5-5-14) (Irache to Los Arcos)
Sunday night in Irache, I stayed by myself in a campground in a modular unit with a double bed and a half bath, I took a shower in the campground shower. Lots of hot water, ...yay! But the water was on a timer, so I had to keep pushing the shower button for more hot water. I also did laundry and dried it on my porch with a piece of string and the bread bag twisties.
I went to dinner Sunday night at the Hotel Irache and had chicken and French fries; there has never been a meal without French fries. I had enough chicken leftover to put on the bread for lunch today (Monday), The weather was cold and I couldn't figure out how to turn on the heat, so the blanket and I had a restless night. I put my walking sticks in the door for security.
This morning (Monday) I took off for Los Arcos, about 11 miles from Irache. I had some issues with my leg, a hamstring pull. I made it to Casa Fuentes de Austria in Los Arcos, with the help of a truck driver who gave me a lift for a couple of km.
I met up with my Italian friend Gian Carlo. Later I showered and did some more laundry etc. Then someone introduced me to a lady doctor from Brazil, she taped my leg and gave me an energy massage. I will take a bus Tuesday to Logroño, which is about 18 miles from Los Arcos, to give my leg some time to heal. There is a pilgrim clinic there if I am not better. I will take it one day at a time to walk the 15 to 18 miles per day, but I can't do it Tuesday. Now I know why those sports guys are out of the game with hamstrings, I always thought they just wanted the day off. Guess the joke is on me. :o)
Attached is a photo of the laundry at the Casa Fuentes de Austria in Los Arcos. Can you see the old fashioned ringer in the photo? Every one hangs their intimates and socks, etc. together. When the lady doctor taped my leg today, I had to drop my pants in the middle of the dinning area. No modesty allowed on the Camino!
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| Above: Laundry at the Casa Fuentes de Austria in Los Arcos |
Day 8 (5-6-14, Tuesday) Los Arcos to Logroño
Because of my leg injury on Monday (coming out of Irache); I took the bus today from Los Arcos to Logroño and went to see a medico in the emergency room of the hospital about noon, so that I could move forward hopefully tomorrow My leg felt better this morning, so it was as much precaution as any thing else. Or maybe I was just being a woos. But it turned out to be a bad day, as the hospital told me I have torn a muscle in my leg. They first said I needed to rest for 15 days. With further consultation I now know that I need to rest for at least a few days. So I will take the bus to the next couple of cities and then start to walk again.
The albergue where I am staying tonight in Logroño is very nice; all is well, I'm very sad but will be okay. Buen Camino.
I'm attaching a photo I took at the Concatedral de Santa María de La Redonda in Logroño, where I had dinner in the plaza in the shadow of this cathedral.
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| Above: Concatedral de Santa María de La Redonda in Logroño |
Day 9 (5-7-14) Logroño to Ventosa
Attached is a picture of the bus I will be taking this morning (Wednesday) to Ventosa, which is about a 14-mile ride from Logroño. This additional day off from hiking will give my leg more rest and I'll see then what my plans are. I'm traveling to Ventosa with another woman who also has an injury.
Can't write much this morning since I'm on my iPhone and not a computer.
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| Above: The bus I took to Ventosa |
Day 9 (5-7-14) Logroño to Ventosa to Nájera
After I arrived in Ventosa by bus from Logroño, I found out the albergue didn't open for another 3 hours and since it was a small town of only 200 people, I decided to take a taxi on to Nájera, a larger town about another 7 miles. I arrive in Nájera before the albergue Puerta de Nájera opened at noon; so I walked down to the River Najerilla to sit and took the attached photo of the bridge over the river. Once the albergue opened and I signed in for the night, I took a long nap and later did a little exploring of the town.
I walked from my albergue to the big church called Monasterio de Santa María la Real Franciscanos, and took a few photos (see attached two photos from the Church).
After my visit to the Church, I went for a glass of wine with a fellow pilgrim by the river, then to the ATM machine and the bus station. Later I went to a pilgrim meal with 3 South African ladies, which was interesting.
When you don't walk all day, you aren't as tired as everyone else. But I will probably be asleep by 10 pm, after I Skype my mom.
I can hardly wait until I am back walking on the Camino de Santiago again.
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| Above: River Najerilla |
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| Above: Monasterio de Santa María la Real Franciscanos |
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| Above: Monasterio de Santa María la Real Franciscanos |
Day 10 (5-8-14): Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
I arrived in Santo Domingo de la Calzada today (Thursday) by bus from Nájera; which is about a 14-mile trip. I needed to give my leg at least one additional day (at a minimum) to heal. One day at a time
Santo Domingo is a small town with a population of about 7,000; located by the Oja River. The town is named after Domingo Garcia, its founder. Domingo worked several miracles after his death and was declared a saint, "Santo Domingo."
I'm going to mass at 7 pm tonight. at the "Catedral de El Salvador," in the historical district of Santo Domingo. The construction of this Cathedral began in the mid-twelfth century, attached is a photo I took with my iPhone, of the tower at the Cathedral.
I don't know why I'm going to mass, maybe hoping the rooster will crow? They say that if the rooster crows while you are in Church, then you will arrive in Santiago in good health. The legend about the rooster and the hen is interesting and I am copying and pasting a copy of the legend in this email.
In the 14th century an 18-year-old German youth called Hugonell was making the pilgrimage to Compostela with his parents. They stopped at the hostel in the town and a Spanish girl working at the hostel fell in love with him. However Hugonell rejected her advances. The girl became angry and hid a silver cup in Hugonell's bag and reported him to the authorities. Hugonell was sentenced to death in the gallows. After he died, his parents went to examine his body that was hanging on the gallows and heard him say that Santo Domingo had kept him alive. The parents went to see the magistrate and told him that the miracle had taken place. The magistrate was eating at that time and was irritated to be interrupted by the parents. He said, "Your son is as alive as this rooster and hen that I am about to eat." At that moment the two birds jumped up from the plate and began to sing and crow happily. So there is a saying: "Santo Doming de la Calzada, where the rooster crows after being roasted."
I'm staying tonight at the Albergue de Peregrinos Casa Del Santo, which is a very nice; it holds 162 people on 3 floors and has a nice patio with clotheslines. No wringer. :o) Attached is a photo from my iPhone of some of the beds
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| Above: Catedral de El Salvador |
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| Above: Albergue de Peregrinos Casa Del Santo |
2 more photos from Day 10 (5-8-14) at Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Before I forget, I want to share a couple of more photos from the small town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada where I spent Day 10 (Thursday, 5-8-14) of my journey.
(1) The first photo I call "On my way with the rooster." Of course that's me masquerading as a pilgrim.
(2) The second photo I call "The tools to extract confessions maybe?" Whatever they are, they were hanging next to the live rooster and hen inside the cathedral.
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| Above: On my way with the rooster. |
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| Above: The tools to extract confessions maybe? |
Day 11 (Friday, 5-9-14)): Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Burgos
In my last email I wrote that I was going to the 7 pm mass Thursday night in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, but turns out there wasn't a 7 pm mass for some reason, so we didn't go to mass. We did walk around the church, looked at some paintings and went outside. In the church, as part of the local legend, they keep two cages, a hen in one and a rooster in the other. The rooster started crowing so we ducked back into the vestibule. Maybe the rooster crowing is reason for optimism for my leg?
We had to move out of the albergue by 8 pm Friday morning so they could get ready for the new incoming pilgrims. Four of us "walking wounded" took the bus to Burgos at 9:20 am Friday morning. I met a man from Dunedin, Florida; which is the town where my mother lives. I could hardly believe it since Dunedin is such a very small town for the USA. The man was riding a bike on the Camino. Lots of roosters were crowing by then.
The entrance to Burgos is beautiful. I'm staying tonight at the Albergue Municipal Casa del Cubo y de los Lerma. The albergue is modern; it just opened in 2008 and has 150 beds. Only one men's toilet and one women's toilet per floor; and only 6 showers which is kind of funny. We are doing laundry in a Kenmore machine; also funny to me.
The albergue is in a 16th century building and next to the Burgos Cathedral. There is no Wi-Fi or computer in the Burgos albergue; so not as much writing as I expected. I walked around the town and it is a beauty.
Saturday (maybe Sunday), I'm going to walk to Tarjados (11 km) or Rabé de las Calzadas (14 km), both short walks. I hope to get back to 25 km per day in 3 or 4 days.
There are two photos attached, one of the beautiful Burgos Cathedral that is in the large central square. The second photo is of the where I'm staying, and shows the queue of backpacks of pilgrims waiting to get in.
Also attached is a map created by a friend, showing where I am now (in Burgos), and how far I've come since I started my pilgrimage in St. Jean Pied de Port, France. I am Day 11 into my 33 day journey, and have covered about 1/3 the distance.
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| Above: Burgos Cathedral in the central square. |
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| Above: albergue where I'm staying, and shows the queue of backpacks of pilgrims waiting to get in. |
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| Above: Map showing where I am now (in Burgos), and how far I've come since I started my pilgrimage in St. Jean Pied de Port, France. |
Day 12 (Saturday, 5-10-14)): Burgos to Tarjados and on to León
Written, Saturday afternoon (Day 12), about 5:40 pm (Spain time), 5-10-14, while on the bus from Burgos to León
In a previous email I mentioned that I was going to do a short walk from Burgos to either Tarjados (11 km) or Rabé de las Calzadas (14 km). I made it to Tarjados and felt like I could go on but I knew that was my big mistake in Estella. Attached is a photo from Tarjados, I call this photo "The Tarjados sites. Ugh!"
Three of the four of us "walking wounded," knowing the walk from Tarjados to León was flat, uninteresting, hot etc., decided to follow the advice of the doctors and two guidebooks; rest our injuries and spend time in a beautiful place. It is with sadness and some reluctance and a little pain we did a retreat. The guidebook actually said reconsider your resolve to do it all on foot, don't judge yourself harshly; I am but I will get over it. Although we walked to Tarjados from Burgos, we're took a taxi back to Burgos to catch a bus to go on to León. While in Burgos my two German friends and I drank Spanish wine while waiting for the bus. Can you imagine that in the USA?
We waited three hours in Burgos for the bus to León (about a 115 mile trip) but finally got on the road. The bus driver agreed we made very good decision as he said the trail to León is long, hot, boring and in traffic part of the time. So I guess it is ok to do it this way . He is Irish; he fell in love with a Spanish girl and moved here 22 years ago. His name was Seamus and he was from Mayo, Ireland.
In Leon, we will rest our injuries and spend time in a beautiful place.
More later as I am using my iPhone. Hopefully I will find a computer in León.
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| Above: The Tarjados sites. Ugh! |
Day 13 (Sunday), 5-11-14) 2nd day in León
We stayed Saturday night at the Hospederia Monastica Pax, a restored monastery converted into a hotel, in the Plaza Santa María del Camino in León. We tried to get beds at the Santa María de Carbajal (an albergue) in the same plaza, but they didn't have room except for mattresses on the floor; and we didn't want to do that our first night in León. Albergues don’t turn pilgrims away, but if there are no beds available, they will provide a skimpy mattress to use on the floor.
The plaza was full of people partying Saturday night. I wore noise-canceling earphones but they only dulled the noise. Those mattresses on the floor across the courtyard (and more isolated from the noise) might have been better.
I sent my mother a gift and a card for Mother's Day before I left NYC on my trip, but early Sunday morning I had a traveling friend take a photo of me to also email to my mother for Mother's Day. The photo was taken in front of the fountain that is in the middle of the Plaza Santa María del Camino where I am staying. The fountain is of two cherubs clutching a pillar, symbolizing León's two rivers and the capital. See attached photo.
Shortly before noon, we checked into the Hostel Orejas, which is located in the center of the town of León, close to the Bernesga River. On our sightseeing tour we went to "abc," that is "another bloody cathedral," although the León Cathedral is very beautiful.
We also saw the Gaudi building (Casa de los Botines), which is a castle-like building (see attached photo) right on Plaza del Obispo; and was designed by Antoni Gaudí. At the entrance to the building, one of my German companions said "look at the alligator." It was a stone sculpture of Saint George slaying the dragon. See attached photo.
Also attached is a photo of two of my German travelers, Stephanie on the left and Annie on the right; they are posing with a bronze statue of Antoni Gaudi sitting on a bench in front of the Gaudi building.
There is a foot race here in León today, so the streets are roped off and they have water stations set up. I wish they had those water stations on the Camino.
We had lunch at the Plaza la Inmaculada, a short walk from the Gaudi building; attached is a photo of the building taken from our sidewalk table. We paid 2 Euros for a sandwich and a glass of wine. When I went back for another small glass of vino tinto. I learned the wine was 2 Euros and the sandwich was free, so I had a tortilla, which is different then in Mexico . It is a potato and egg thing, sometimes with ham and cheese and today with a red pepper. OMG, a vegetable. Wow!
We also walked by the Bernesga River to San Marcos Square to see the Leon Museum, It has quite a history.
We ate, drank wine and napped; so now for a new adventure.
Still writing on my iPhone, so can't write a lot.
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| Above: Fountain in the middle of the Plaza Santa María del Camino. |
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| Above: Gaudi building (Casa de los Bovines) on Plaza del Obispo. |
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| Above: Stone sculpture of Saint George slaying the dragon. |
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| Above: Some friends I met. |
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| Above: Building we saw when we had lunch. |
Day 14 (Monday, 5-12-14)): León to Villar de Mazarife
Written, Monday evening (Day 14), about 4:30 pm (Spain time), 5-12-14...
While we were sightseeing in León yesterday (Sunday), one of my German travelers took the attached photo of a statue; the statue was bizarre! It is a nude male of bronze belonging to the artist Amancio Gonzalez, and is located in the Santo Domingo Square close to the León Museum.
We didn't get a very early start out of León today (Monday); it was quiet and comfortable at the Hostel Orejas, and 36 degrees outside. Finally after a pilgrim breakfast of toast, jam and coffee (no protein) we got to the place to where we started walking to Virgen de la Camino (about 8+ km or 5 miles beyond León). The fields along the trail were filled with great big chunks of red clay on one side, it appeared it was drying so that it could be broken into smaller pieces and wheat could be grown. There were bouquets all along the trail; red poppies and asparagus fern, just beautiful. Attached is a photo.
We stopped at a water fountain in Chozas de Abajo (about 18 km or 11 miles beyond León) to get freshwater; and I took a photo of one of my fellow "walking wounded," attached is the photo.
And now I am in the Albergue Casa de Jesus in Villar de Mazarife (about 22 km or 14 miles beyond León). We stopped at a bar for a coffee and toast; it looked like the place had never seen a broom; but it did have toilet paper soap and paper towels, so that was good. But they charged two times what they should for the coffee and toast, I wanted to put up a sign that read "No good for pilgrims".
A photo of me (although you can't tell it) on the road, out of Leon. My traveling companion Stephanie took it with her iPhone.
Here at the Albergue Casa de Jesus they are doing our laundry for three euros while we drink beer and eat cookies, it's very nice to sit down. They said they had a pool but it was empty and maybe only 6 or 8 feet wide by 12 or 15 feet long. Very funny, definitely no Olympic practice here.
Still writing on my iPhone, so can't write a lot.
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| Above: Nude male of bronze belonging to the artist Amancio Gonzalez, located in the Santo Domingo Square close to the León Museum. |
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| Above: Walking to Virgen de la Camino (about 8+ km or 5 miles beyond León). |
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| Above: One of my fellow "walking wounded" at a water fountain in Chozas de Abajo (about 18 km or 11 miles beyond León). |
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| Above: Diane on the road, outside of Leon. |
Day 15 (Tuesday, 5-13-14)): Villar de Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo
Yesterday I received an email from Lance Horn with the comment "Hopefully, you left Leon before the shooting there today. The Head of Leon Province, Ms. Isabel Carrasco, was shot dead on a bridge crossing the River Bernesga by another woman." The answer is yes, we had left León and walked the 15 km to Villar de Mazarife.
As far as today, we have covered another 16 km and made it to the small town of Hospital de Orbigo and will be spending the night in the Albergue San Miguel. The road has been similar to yesterday, only dusty. The fields were a full raw sienna color, while yesterday they were a deep burnt sienna with green crops in between the fields and lots of wild flowers. No flowers today, only lots of frogs. Is it mating season for frogs? Very noisy and exuberant.
We stopped for coffee at St. Lucia Albergue in a sleepy town called Villavante before getting to Hospital de Orbigo.
Once we got to the Albergue San Miguel in Hospital de Orbigo at about 1:30 pm, we went through the normal routine; shower, wash clothes (I wash clothes in the shower, others go to the sinks), then hang the wet stuff on the provided clothes lines. Some folks carry clothespins, but my bread wrapper clips work just as well and take a lot less space and weight. Then we usually have drink or a nap. Last night was a full moon and two of us didn´t sleep very well as the moon shone in our window. So if we don´t take a nap today, we might sleep well tonight.
I am looking forward to Astorga tomorrow (about another 18 km), as there is a Gaudi Cathedral and hotel and maybe other interesting buildings. Then we have to make a decision. My current traveling companions need to get to Santiago by May 28, I have more time, and so we may split up if they have to take the bus or train. If I can move fast enough I may go to Madrid for a day to go to the Prada, but mostly I am not planning just one day at a time. Waiting for enlightenment.
There is a webcam here at this albergue so I can try to Skype my mother later.
We passed a restaurant in Hospital de Orbigo, with the name of "Los Angeles," I thought that was funny. See attached photo.
By the way, the bridge over the River Orbigo (see attached 2 photos) coming into Hospital de Orbigo is the subject of a great romantic legend about a knight who defended it. Some say it is the point of departure for the whole Don Quixote story.
I've forgotten so many things I wanted to write more about. The Albergue San Miguel has paints and paper for artists to express themselves. My two current traveling buddies are trying to get me to paint something, but I have performance shyness. We wiil see, maybe after the vino tinto.
I had 24 minutes on this rental computer when I started this missive and am now down to 8 minute.
So before I end this email, here are some random thoughts I've had on this journey...
I think anyone who walks the Camino has to expect something to hurt some of the time. So far I am doing ok with the boots and the duct tape.
The walking poles I bought are fabulous. They have shock absorption, so when I am walking on pavement it is better. But mostly what they are doing is they are making me walk level, so that I don´t favor the sore leg and cause the other one to get hurt as well. At David´s advice I bought the rubber tips for the points, so they don´t go "click-click-click" when I walk. It is a very annoying sound.
I enjoy walking alone. Expecting to have lofty thoughts and deep conversations with myself, but mostly I just put one foot in front of the other. I am writing a paper, a definitive lists for walking the Camino. There are lots of lists but without the logic, I would have appreciated someone´s experience with poles, towels, shampoo, toilet paper, etc. So I think I will make a spread sheet with the list and then make the Excel file downloadable from my website. I couldn´t stop thinking about this idea. Maybe I could even make a YouTube video about how to use walking poles that could be useful for some.
If what they say about using opposite arms and legs to improve your brain is true, I´ll be really, really smart when I get back. The walking poles make that movement very defined. If it is true, and it creates new dendrites into he brain, why don´t they prescribe the Camino for Alzheimer’s patients? I think it would be a great experiment for someone. I don´t know who to write, so if you think of someone, let me know. I also wonder if using the walking poles is helping my triceps. Wow, almost out of time and I just keep typing. No wonder I spend so much time on the computer, it is amazing.
Buen Camino. xo Diane (3 photos attached)
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| Above: Restaurant in Hospital de Orbigo, with the name of "Los Angeles," I thought that was funny. |
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| Above: Bridge over the River Orbigo coming into Hospital de Orbigo. |
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| Above: Another view of the Bridge over the River Orbigo coming into Hospital de Orbigo. |
Day 16 (5-14-14): Hospital de Órbigo to Astorga
Written, Wednesday evening (Day 16), about 7:00 pm (Spain time), 5-14-14...
I started walking really early this morning, leaving Hospital de Órbigo for Astorga, it was 30°F and I had to wear my gloves. The road was gentle rolling hills, there was no place to stop along the way for fresh water, so I drink all of the water I was carrying. Because there were no places to stop for food, café or water, I had to do the bushes thing for the first time (see attached cartoon which I took a photo of with my iPhone when I finally got to Astorga).
But all along the way I could see the mountains in the background and before long I was in Astorga. Astorga is a very pretty Spanish town with a Gaudi Cathedral. I went inside and it was very interesting. I also went to the regular cathedral; it was pretty boring in comparison. Also attached are two photos of the Gaudi Cathedral, one with yours truly.
The road tomorrow starts the long haul; gradually climbing to the highest point of the trip, the Iron Cross (La Cruz de Ferro), which is 1,505 meters or about 5,000 feet. At the Iron Cross, you leave a stone for everything you don't want to take with you, physically and metaphorically.
My two German schoolgirls are leaving me tomorrow so I'll be on my own which is okay; on the Camino you meet many people and make many friends, even if temporary. We are having a Pilgrim dinner tonight for €11 including wine. See last attached photo. What a deal! Today a beer cost more than a glass of fine wine. Also attached is a photo of where we are having our outdoors Pilgrim dinner.
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| Above : Cartoon...in the bushes. |
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| Above: Diane and the Gaudi Cathedral. |
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| Above: Gaudi Cathedral. |
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| Above: Where we had our Pilgrim dinner. |
Day 17 (Thursday, 5-15-14)): Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
Written, Thursday evening (Day 17), about 2:00 pm (Spain time), 5-15-14...
Today I walked from Astorga to Rabanal del Camino, a distance of about 21 km, or 13 miles. I will be staying tonight in the Hostal El Refugio, which is on the northern part of the town.
As I mentioned yesterday, the trail is now a gradual climbing to the highest point of the trip, the Iron Cross (La Cruz de Ferro). Once a pilgrim reaches the Iron Cross, it is a tradition leave a stone at the cross, and that stone represents everything you don't want to take with you, physically and metaphorically. For those of you who have seen the movie (The Way), remember when Captain Henri gave the stone to Martin Sheen in St. Jean Pied de Port, Henri said "La Cruz de Ferro is a place of much significance." That cross and tradition is a big deal on the Camino and I am excited…I have my stone. I will reach La Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) tomorrow, a short walk of about 8 km (5 miles).
I won't have Wi-Fi at the albergue tonight to write a summary of the rest of my day but I'd like to attached a few photos that I made on my walk this morning.
(1) The first two photos should be of my breakfast this morning about 10 km or 6 miles out of Astorga. As you may be able to see, I had a sandwich for breakfast (and had enough left over for lunch). I had a glass of red wine with the sandwich, the wine was 2 euros. Vino de Esta Casa. The wine was from this part of Spain, El Bierzo, and a respected wine region.
(2) The next four photos are some scenery shots I made further down the road in a small town called El Ganso. Lots of stonewalls in various states of crumble, the Cowboy bar, the church, crosses and memorials on the stonewalls next to old buildings with thatched roofs.
(3) The last photo should be a photo of the room where I am staying tonight. :o)
That's it for now, will write tomorrow or later when I have Wi-Fi.
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| Above: Where I had breakfast this morning, about 10 km or 6 miles out of Astoria. |
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| Above: My breakfast. |
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| Above: Scenery in El Ganso. |
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| Above: Scenery in El Ganso. |
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| Above: Scenery in El Ganso. |
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| Above: Scenery in El Ganso. |
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| Above: The room where I stayed the night. :o) |
Day 18 (Friday, 5-16-14)); Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
Written, Friday evening (Day 18), about 5:45 pm (Spain time), 5-16-14...
Today I walked from Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca, a distance of about 27.7 km, or 17 miles. I will be staying tonight in the Albergue Santa Marina.
My injured leg is complaining, as is my right foot. Sometimes there are no choices, you just do what you have to do. I'm not sure what my walking plans are for the next couple of days. There is a big mountain coming up. They say, don't do it tired, ...we will see. Villafranca del Bierzo is 30 km., which is too far to go in one day.
Attached is a photo I took as I was leaving Rabanal del Camino this morning. My shadow seems to go on forever and the full moon could still be seen in the West (although not in this photo).
It was a rough walking day overall, but the climb to the Iron Cross (La Cruz de Ferro) was not hard, as the weather was cool and I was fresh. The flowers were abundant, so many small white ones they covered everything. Then the purple ones took over. La Cruz de Ferro turned out to be sort of a Peggy Lee moment for me, "Is that all there is?" Attached is a photo of me at the Iron Cross, with my new walking Norwegian friend Irvin. The Iron Cross was so tall that the top got cut off in this photo.
The rest of the day was rocky, mostly steep going up, and very steep going downhill. My feet took a beating and my arms are definitely stressed from using the walking sticks . Everyone else is complaining about his or her knees, but I used my walking sticks so much it is my arms that feel it the most. My feet are currently basking in the sun. I'm happy to be in flip-flops now and not in boots.
My room at the Albergue Santa Marina is only 6 bunk beds with 12 people, mostly men, so tonight may be noisy. The cost is 7 Euros for the room and 8 Euros for dinner, including wine. Attached is a photo of the albergue.
We didn't sightsee in town as it was siesta time and everything was closed, the Spanish have it right. I told my walking friend Irvin that we are pilgrims and not tourists, so we don't have to take a tour to sightsee. Plus we need to rest for the trail tomorrow.
I did laundry in a machine today. Wow, what a luxury. I will have clean towels and pants tomorrow. Everything is dried in the sun, not in a dryer. Some places have spinners for hand laundry.
I am eating so differently. I had bread and jam for breakfast, plus a pear and a huge sandwich for lunch; mostly bread and just now the leftovers from last night. You guessed it, my leftovers was bread with some veal on it. So many carbs.
Also attached is a Google map created by a friend showing where I am today, and how far I have traveled since I started the Camino de Santiago in St. Jean Pied de Port in France last month on April 29th. Distance wise, I have covered about 72% of the total distance and am in Day 18 of my scheduled 33-day hiking journey.
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| Above: Leaving Rabanal del Camino this morning. My shadow seems to go on forever. |
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| Above: Diane at La Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross), with walking Norwegian friend Irvin. |
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| Above: Albergue Santa Marina. |
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| Above: Google map showing the distance Diane has covered so far. |
Day 19 (Saturday, 5-17-14)): Molinaseca to Cacabelos
Written, Saturday evening (Day 19), about 4:50 pm (Spain time), 5-17-14...
Today I walked from Molinaseca to Cacabelos, a distance of about 21 km, or 13 miles. I will be staying tonight in the Hostal La Gallega in Cacabelos.
Attached are a few photos from today.
(1) Medieval stone bridge going into Ponferrada, over the Río Boeza
(2) Templum Libri (castle of the Templar Knights) in Ponferrada, a castle built in the early 13th century over what was once a pre-Roman fort
(3) Chairs in the Cafe Godivah where I stopped, across the street from the Templum Libri
(4) Vineyard on the way to Cacabelos
(5) Stonewall in a Service Area going into Cacabelos. Stone age facebook wall? :o)
(6) Where I had lunch at the Hotel Moncloa De San Lazaro, in Cacabelos
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| Above: Medieval stone bridge going into Ponferrada, over the Río Boeza. |
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| Above: Templum Libri (castle of the Templar Knights) in Ponferrada. |
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| Above: Chairs in the Cafe Godivah, across the street from the Templum Libri. |
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| Above: Vineyard on the way to Cacabelos. |
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| Above: Stonewall in a Service Area going into Cacabelos. |
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| Above: Where I had lunch at the Hotel Moncloa De San Lazaro, in Cacabelos. |
Day 19 (5-17-14), a follow-up
Written, Saturday evening (Day 19), about 10:12 pm (Spain time), 5-17-14...
This is a follow-up to my previous email earlier today.
The place (Hotel Moncloa De San Lazaro, in Cacabelos) where I had lunch today was a great place, with cloth napkins even. It's a famous 13th-century old pilgrim hospital, converted now to an expensive parador.
As I mentioned in the earlier email, I saw beautiful huge Irises; yellow, wine colors and purple ones on my walk to Cacabelos. And there were roses in bloom everywhere, just amazing.
I started the day feeling very down, "pity party" down. But I'm okay now.
After I checked into the Hostal La Gallega in Cacabelos, I went on a wine tour and then had dinner, I'm really tired now. The wine tasting episode was fun but the wine ( rosé) they served was kind of a bomb. I totally enjoyed the people and the experience; but now know I never want to have a rosé wine again. At the wine tasting I met a group from Madrid, I think I have some new friends as we had such a fun time (in spite of the rosé wine).
I was sitting in the local square today with my Norwegian friend, listening to the Spanish people having their fiesta, and was wondering if they will be quiet when I'm ready to go to bed.
Tomorrow we start the climb that leads to the village of O’Cebreiro, the last of the big mountain climbs, Except for coming through the Pyrenees mountains out of St. Jean Pied de Port, this will be my steepest climb. O’Cebreiro is over 37 km from Cacabelos, so I won't make it there in one day.
Nighty night all, Buen Camino. xo Diane
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Day 20 (Sunday, 5-18-14): Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce
Written, Sunday evening (Day 20), about 7:30 pm (Spain time), 5-18-14...
The first photo attached is from last night (Saturday) at the wine lecture in Cacabelos that I attended. Note the 4 bear paws on the caskets, a trademark of the Cuatro Pasos wines. The rosé wine they recently started producing is called Cuatro Pasos Rosado.
Today I walked from Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce, a distance of about 26 km, or 16 miles.
I left Cacabelos at 7:20 am and 50F degrees. Nothing was open that early, fortunately I had an apple and a muesli bar for the two-hour hike to Villafranca del Bierzo, the trip was hilly through vineyards and was really beautiful. I stopped in Villafranca for a tortilla and coffee.
After there I missed the turn for the slightly longer, scenic route, which I have since learned, was badly marked. So I ended up on the road route which was all pavement and mostly sunny. It was AWFUL, mostly flat so the combo was really hard on my leg. I have been carefully duct taping my feet, but they got hot today.
The second attached photo is a white house on top of a hill above a lovely vineyard, I passed this place on my way to Villafranca del Bierzo and just decided to take the photo.
When I cruised/limped into Vega de Valcarce, my Norwegian friend was sitting at a bar so I checked into the Albergue Magdalena and joined her for a beer. The hostelier is from England, young and nice. He explained some things to us, like which places have bed bugs and how we have clean pillowcases tonight.
I acquired a blister on my big toe, which I tore open removing the duct tape, hopefully it will heal by am. Tomorrow is the steep climb to O 'Cebreiro. Only 167 km to go to Santiago de Compostela, or about 104 miles. No more highway pavement for a few days.
A German doctor told me about an over-the-counter pain reliever called Paracetamol. I bought 20 tabs for 0.67 Euros. If they work. I will throw all my clothes away and fill my suitcase with Paracetamol, and then I will have finished my Christmas shopping. :o)
We are going to dinner in the bar by the Albergue. Octopus (pulpa) is the big dish. Pretty tasty. I'm thinking tapas tonight.
The third attached photo is of the 16th century Castle of Villafranca.
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| Above: At the wine lecture in Cacabelos. |
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| Above: A white house on top of a hill above a lovely vineyard. |
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| Above: 6th century Castle of Villafranca. |
Day 21 (5-19-14): Vega de Valcarce to Fonfria
Written, Monday afternoon (Day 21), about 3:30 pm (Spain time), 5-19-14...
About the turn-off yesterday that I missed to a slightly longer but more scenic hike out of Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadelo; several people told me they enjoyed the non-scenic roadway route because there was a river that sounded lovely all the way, and that is true, but I didn't enjoy it.
Today I walked from Vega de Valcarce to Fonfria, a distance of about 24.5 km, or 15 miles. And I am staying at the Albergue A Reboleira in Fonfria. This albergue has 70 beds; not all in one room, but a lot in the room where I am.
The first attached photo is of a hedgehog, I've never seen a hedgehog before, and I was amused. Since a black cat is bad luck, I wonder if a hedgehog is good luck? I passed this guy about 4 km after I left Vega de Valcarce this morning, a little past a village called Las Herrerias.
Once we reached the town of O Cebreiro we climbed even higher on the trail. Some people take the road to avoid the really steep up-hill climb. I think I have climbed ladders that weren't as steep as some of the trail. Particularly, the last climb to Alto de Poio, which is another 8+ km beyond O Cebreiro. I am tired and I am proud.
I met mostly Brazilians today, funny eh? As I mentioned earlier, I am staying in Fonfria, which is billed as a typical Galician village. I think that means farm town.
The forecast for today was for rain, but it didn't rain and the views were great. I feel less cheated since I didn't get to see any views when I crossed over the Pyrenees Mountains.
Oh, flowers, all small today. Maybe even some edelweiss as I went over the mountain, so I sang songs from "The Sound of Music" as I walked.
I just finished dinner and it is snowing here. There were two Asian ladies at dinner that have never seen snow. It is so fun and cold.
Photos from today are as follows:
(1) Hedgehog, after leaving Vega de Valcarce
(2) Diane at a border marker crossing the border of Castilla y Leon and entering into Galicia. Galicia is an autonomous community in northwest Spain.
(3) Diane on the peak at O Cebreiro, but I did go a little higher than O Cebreiro (to Alto de Poio, another 65 km in elevation).
(4) Scenery of Galicia area
(5) Church of Santa Maria la Real Cebreiro, aka The Church of St. Mary (O Cebreiro). This church sits on top of the Cebreiro Pass as you go into Galicia, the Eucharistic miracle of O Cebreiro was performed here This miracle may not be as well known as the miracle of the rooster and the hen in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, but it is a big deal in this area.
(6) Made at Cebreiro also
(7) Also attached is a chart showing the elevations that I have hiked. As you can see, O Cebreiro is not the highest climb I've had, but it has been the steepest climb (elevation change vs. distance traveled) since I came through the Pyrenees Mountains (St. Jean Pied de Port to Col de Lepoeder).
(8) Also attached is a map showing Galicia, as part of Spain.
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| Above: Hedgehog, after leaving Vega de Valcarce. |
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| Above: Diane at a border marker crossing the border of Castilla y Leon and entering into Galicia. |
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| Above: Diane on the peak at O Cebreiro. |
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| Above: Scenery of Galicia area. |
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| Above: Church of Santa Maria la Real Cebreiro, aka The Church of St. Mary (O Cebreiro). |
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| Above: Diane at O Cebreiro. |
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| Above: chart showing the elevations that I have hiked. |
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| Above: map showing Galicia, as part of Spain. |
Day 22 (Tuesday, 5-20-14)): Fonfria to Sarria
Written, Tuesday afternoon (Day 22), about 6:30 pm (Spain time), 5-20-14...
Today I walked from Fonfria to Samos and then took a taxi to Sarria, a distance of about 32.7 km, or 20.3 miles. And I am staying tonight at the Albergue Oasis in Sarria.
We started this morning at 7:30, fresh as they say; with snow still on the trail where the sun hadn't hit. We started our mostly downhill climb to the town Triacastela, which is named after three castles that once protected the town. The walk was mostly on wooded trails with stunning views.
When we reached Triacastela, we had a choice to make as there are two trails that go to Sarria. The shorter trail goes through San Xil with supposedly a spectacular view from the top of a ridge. We opted to take the longer way, thinking we might stay at the Monastery at Samos. The refuge at the monastery had 100 beds in one room, which we didn't like, so we didn't stay there.
We were later sitting in a nice Samos bar run by a mother and daughter, it was raining and the forecast was for more rain; so we decided to take a taxi into Sarria, where it was pouring also. We checked into the Albergue Oasis at Sarria, it wasn't charming but it was clean and dry.
A quick adventure later into town resulted in us getting even more soaked. More and more drenched peregrinos were coming into town from Samos, one man said the walk was 3.5 hours. Too much for my injured leg even in dry weather.
We walked almost 19 km today, from Fonfria to Samos, before we decided to take the taxi on to Sarria. Right now I'm having a cup of teas waiting for a warm shower, then later a pilgrim dinner. When you only have two changes of clothing and you get wet, it's hard to have something dry to wear.
Attached are some photos from today and one from last night.
(1) My Norwegian friend and I in Fonfria, Monday night at dinner
(2) Three scenery scenes from Triacastela
(3) Yours truly, hugging a chestnut tree that is said to be 800 years old, in Triacastela
(4) Four scenery scenes from Samos, including one distant shot of the Monastery
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| Above: My Norwegian friend and I in Fonfria, Monday night at dinner |
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| Above: Scenery scene from Triacastela. |
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| Above: Scenery scene from Triacastela. |
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| Above: Scenery scene from Triacastela. |
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| Above: Diane hugging a chestnut tree that is said to be 800 years old, in Triacastela. |
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| Above: Scenery scenes from Samos. |
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| Above: Scenery scenes from Samos. |
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| Above: Scenery scenes from Samos. |
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| Above: Scenery scenes from Samos. |
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| Above: Scenery scenes from Samos with distant shot of the Monastery. |
Day 23 (Wednesday, 5-21-14)): Sarria to Portomarin
Written, Wednesday afternoon (Day 23), about 6:45 pm (Spain time), 5-21-14...
Today I walked from Sarria to Portomarin, a distance of about 24.6 km, or 15+ miles. And I am staying tonight at the Albergue O Mirador in Portomarin.
As I'm writing this, I'm in the bar drinking Rioja wine waiting for dinnertime. Our main objective in this town is going to the church to get our passports stamped, to the pharmacy for blister band-aids and the super mercado for fruit and yogurt. Neither Luiza nor I like it here but it is only one night. We left Sarria in the rain and climbed very, very steep trails to get to a fabulous, very greasy huevos and bacon breakfast . What we figured out was if you get potatoes with this, then it is dinner. Just the opposite of USA.
Yum, this Rioja wine (16 euros) is better than the Vin de la Casa we have been drinking copious amounts of. This will slow us down.
The rain cleared up from time to time, so it wasn't so awful except the trails were muddy and the cows use them as well; so there were some very slick places, if you get my drift.
We walked through some nice little streams to clean off our boots. The funniest thing of the day was the bottleneck, like rush hour on the pilgrim trail, a huge back up.
There was the biggest cow in Galicia across the path munching weeds on one side and swishing her tail on the other side. The pilgrims in front must have been from the city and didn't know how to get the cow out of the way. It amused me and my foot wasn't complaining about the respite.
So many abandoned stone houses in the villages, interesting.
Attached are some photos from the day.
(1) The first 2 photos were made at various places after leaving Sarria
(2) The 3rd photo was of the 100 km marker. Sarria is the last starting point for those wishing to obtain the ‘Compostela’ certificate confirming completion of the Camino – a minimum of 100 kilometers is required (200 kilometers if you choose to cycle).
(3) The 4th is of some old stone houses.
(4) The next 3 photos are of the roman road into Portomarin
(5) The last photo is of the 16-euro wine I had before dinner
On a side and technical note, this hike has been a lot of ups and downs, as there are a lot of mountains in Spain. On Day 1 of my Camino de Santiago, I started my walk in St. Jean Pied de Port, France at an elevation of about 590 feet above sea level. On Day 2, I hiked as high as 4,692 feet at Col Lepoeder when I crossed the Pyrenees Mountains. After the Pyrenees Mountains I dropped as low as about 1,100 feet on Day 6, just outside of the valley town of Puente la Reina, in what is called the Ebro Depression.
On Day 11, I hiked back up to over 3,700 feet, between Santo Domingo de la Calzada and Burgos as I crossed through the Oca Mountains; which are more like big hills than mountains.
On Day 18, I hiked back up as high as 4,970 feet when I came through the León Mountain range, near Manjarin, which was just after the Cruz de Ferro. On Day 18 also, I dropped below an altitude of around 1,900 feet during the very steep descent to the small town of Molinaseca where I spent the night.
Now that I'm in Portomarin at about 1,100 feet, I have covered about 93% of the total distance of my planned walk. I have another 86+ km (about 54 miles) to Santiago de Compostela. Plus I have to go through the Galician Mountain Range, but they are not very high, about 1,600 feet on the Camino.
Buen Camino. xo Diane (8 photos attached, plus 2 maps of Spain showing where I currently am and some of the mountains).
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| Above: Leaving Sarria. |
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| Above: Leaving Sarria. |
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| Above: 100 km marker. Sarria is the last starting point for those wishing to obtain the ‘Compostela’ certificate confirming completion of the Camino. |
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| Above: some old stone houses. |
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| Above: Roman road into Portomarin. |
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| Above: Roman road into Portomarin. |
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| Above: Roman road into Portomarin. |
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| Above: 16-euro wine I had before dinner. |
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| Above: Map of Spain showing where I currently am. |
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| Above: Map of Spain showing some of the mountain ranges. |
Day 24 (5-22-14): Portomarin to Palas de Rei
On Day 24, I walked from Portomarin to Palas de Rei, a distance of about 24.2 km, or 15 miles. I stayed at the Albergue Castro in Palas de Rei.
The following photos are from Thursday (Day 24):
(1) "Way Post" after leaving Portomarin, showing 78 km to Santiago de Compostela. Notice my thumb?
(2) Some contented brown Galician cows after leaving Portomarin. Remember the nursery rhyme "How now brown cow?"
(3) Original Camino landmark, the Cruceiro de Lameiros (Cross of Lamerios). The 1670 AD stone cross represents the maternity and life through images of Jesus Christ and the Virgen de los Dolores.
(4) Lady selling really good cheese she made, coming into Ligonde. We bought 4-euros worth.
(5) Me getting a hug from a guy from Virginia, USA volunteering for his church to encourage pilgrims. A fun group.
(6) Another landmark from original Camino, the Iglesia de Santiago (Church of Santiago), outside of Letedo, before going into Palas de Rei. It's in the middle of a graveyard.
(7) My injured leg. To help me make the last few days. When we got to Albergue Castro in Palas de Rei. The muscle in my leg was hard as a rock and hurt beyond words. I took a nap and did shin splint exercises. No luck, so I went to a fisioterapista (physiotherapist in English) around the corner who worked on it for an hour for only 35 euros. I couldn't believe it. What she did was good and I will now make it to Santiago de Compostela. I was having doubts yesterday if I would make it. But things change on the Camino.
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| Above: "Way Post" after leaving Portomarin, showing 78 km to Santiago de Compostela. Notice my thumb? |
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| Above: Some contented brown Galician cows after leaving Portomarin. |
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| Above: The Cruceiro de Lameiros (Cross of Lamerios). |
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| Above: Coming into Ligonde, lady selling really good cheese she made, . |
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| Above: Diane getting a hug from a guy from Virginia, USA volunteering for his church to encourage pilgrims. |
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| Above: The Iglesia de Santiago (Church of Santiago), outside of Letedo. |
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| Above: My injured leg |
Day 25 (Friday, 5-23-14): Palas de Rei to Boente
Written, Friday afternoon (Day 25), about 5 pm Spain time, 5-23-14...
Today I walked from Palas de Rei to Boente, a distance of about 20.7 km, or 13 miles. And I am staying tonight at the Albergue Boente in Boente. And I spent extra money, 17 euros for a private room. Real sheets, a blanket and a towel. What luxury!
It was rainy and cold when we started out this morning in Palas de Rei. Breakfast at the albergue was standard, but they also had these awesome fresh orange juice machines. They put 8 oranges in a rack, the machine drops the oranges down one at a time, cuts then in half and squeezes them.
My leg seemed to doing ok as I wore long johns as well as my heavier pants. All of which has been worn for many days, so they have extra layers called dirt and sweat. All the tape the physiotherapist put on my leg stayed on.
We trudged over hill and dale in the drip, drip, drip in what is supposed to be beautiful countryside. We stopped at a pilgrim bar for coffee and an enormous croissant, and ate it all with gusto.
We then continued on into Melide where we had lunch at what I would call a Spanish diner, full of local people, not pilgrims. The church in Furelos (shortly before Melide) is famous for the Jesus statue with his arm hanging down to pick us up and take us to Heaven. I am not so fond of Jesus on the cross statues but this was an interesting one and even more curious was that his knees were bleeding. I don't remember seeing that before but maybe I haven't looked closely enough.
At Melide we decided we could go on to Boente, which is about 5.8 km beyond Melide.
I am doing laundry in a machine that they use a chisel to open. And the dryer takes an hour. Luisa is sleeping and my German friends are only 10 km ahead of us I think.
It is clear I won't get to Santiago for the Sunday pilgrim mass, but I figure they have one everyday. I may not get to see the Botafumeiro as I think they do that on Friday nights. But maybe it will be when I am there or on my way back from Finisterre.
The sun is out now. Go figure.
Attached are some photos from today.
(1) Me, this morning, in Furelos, at bridge over rio Furelos
(2) Statue in the church at Furelos
(3) Statue also in the church at Furelos
(4) A statue of St James at the bar in Boente
(5) One of the many statues/icons of St. James that I've seen on my journey.
(6) A manhole cover with the St. James shell embossed in it. You also see the St. James shell imbedded in stone pavements in many cities and towns, as a guide for the pilgrims.
When it was raining hard this morning, the road was so wet I started calling it the 'Alligator Camino" instead of Camino de Santiago.
When I was in the Albergue Boente in Boente at the bar drinking wine, I was drinking the famous Galician white wine, Albariño. Very tasty.
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| Above: Diane in Furelos, at bridge over Rio Furelos. |
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| Above: Statue in the church at Furelos. |
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| Above: Statue in the church at Furls. |
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| Above: Statue of St. James at the bar in Boente. |
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| Above: One of the many statues/icons of St. James that I've seen on my journey. |
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| Above: A manhole cover with the St. James shell embossed in it. |
Day 26 (Saturday, 5-24-14): Boente to O Pedrouzo
Written, Saturday night (Day 26), 5-24-14...
Today we walked from Boente to O Pedrouzo, a distance of about 35 km, or just under 22 miles. This was my longest walk of any single day, although Roncesvalles to Larrasoana was a close second.
I started today with another greasy bacon and egg breakfast before hitting the trail, and there was no rain, ...yay on the 'no rain.' But I have never had bacon with bones in it before.
We walked and walked, walked in sunshine and walked in shade. It was both warm and cool, my jacket was on and my jacket was off, my jacket pit zips were opened and closed (pit zips are zippers in the armpits of good hiking clothes).
There weren't many places between Boente and O Pedrouzo to stop, but I found one place that had the most amazing chocolate croissant ever.
We got as far as Santa Irene and thought about putting up there for the night, but there was "no room at the Inn," that is no room at the albergue. So we walked on to O Pedrouzo where my German college girls secured a place for us...yay.
We spent the extra euros for a room and had a wonderful Galician white wine before a nap and a shower. Then we had dinner at Parrillada o' Boi Pulperia, our "last supper" on the Camino, having (pulpo, aka octopus) with more white wine. Mary Magdalene was here too. :o)
We are now in a local bar watching the "BIG" game, two Madrid teams playing futbol (soccer in the US). As soon as Luisa finishes her Patxaran (liqueur) and me my vino tinto we are going to turn in, before dark, which is against my normal rules.
Santiago de Compostela is only 20 km (5 hour walk) from where we are now, so we walk into Santiago tomorrow (Sunday). Wow!
I have some photos to share from today.
(1) The first four photos are just some early-in-the-day scenery shots from the farmland area between Boente and Rivadiso (aka Ribadiso), including an old Roman town close to Rivadiso.
(2) The last photo is the Galician white wine.
Speaking of photos, a friend of mine has put copies of all the photos I have emailed into one Picasa Web Album. If you might be interested in viewing them online, go to the Picasa URL below and either click on the "Slideshow" button or just view them as individual photos using your right and left keyboard arrows. This album contains all the photos I have sent since I left New York City on April 29.
<https://picasaweb.google.com/ArizonaRFZ/CaminoPhotos?authkey=Gv1sRgCPbzvJLt3__MqQE>
The attached screen shot shows what the above site might look like on your computer.
The site has a neat feature in the "Show photo locations to viewers of this album via either a Google map or a Google Earth map)." For example, Picasa will automatically place a small thumbnail of each photo on a Google map, based on the GPS coordinates embedded in my iPhone photo. This map will show where I've been and where I took photos or didn't take photos (or just forgot to turn the GPS on).
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| Above: Scenery from the farmland area between Boente and Rivadiso (aka Ribadiso). |
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| Above: Scenery from the farmland area between Boente and Rivadiso (aka Ribadiso). |
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| Above: Scenery from the farmland area between Boente and Rivadiso (aka Ribadiso). |
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| Above: Scenery from the farmland area between Boente and Rivadiso (aka Ribadiso). |
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| Above: Galician white wine. |
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| Above: Picasa Web Album showing all the photos I have sent since I left New York City on April 29. |
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| Above: Picasa Web Album feature, "Show photo locations to viewers of this album via either a Google map or a Google Earth map)." |
Sunday: Santiago de Compostela!
Attached is a Google map showing the distance I have covered and where I am now (O Pedrouzo). Tomorrow I will walk into Santiago de Compostela.
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| Above: Google map showing the distance I have covered and where I am now (O Pedrouzo). |
Day 27 (Sunday, 5-25-14): Finally reached O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela
Written, Sunday night (Day 27), at about 9:15 pm, 5-25-14...
Today we walked from O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, a distance of about 20 km, or 12 miles.
This morning we left the Albergue O Burgo in O Pedrouzo, which was close to where we had dinner last night. It was foggy when we left and there was no place open for breakfast for about 2 hours. It alternated between rain and sunshine all day, very refreshing. I saw newborn lambs and some sheep that hadn't been sheared. The countryside was beautiful with purple flowers called fox gloves I think; and yellow ones to complete the palette. We saw a beautiful rainbow, a good sign maybe. I took some photos from the trail and they are attached.
After arriving in Santiago de Compostela the first thing we had to do was find a room early, as the city was very crowded with pilgrims. A lady picked us up in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela and took us to her apartment, which she has organized, for pilgrims. We had hot water, but no heat, only blankets. We are staying in a good location. At 2:30 pm it was pouring rain outside and cold in our room. We weren't able to get out early for any wine, bread or cheese.
A few hours later we finally got out and went to the Pilgrim Office and received our Compostelas. The Compostela is a document written in Latin that states you completed the Camino for spiritual or religious purposes. If you complete the Camino for non-spiritual or religious purposes, you receive a different document, but it also is an acknowledgment that you completed the Camino. I'm also including some photos from the city of Santiago de Compostela.
We are in a bar right now, drinking some Galician red wine. I don't like it as much as the white. A whole group of men came in with big towels on their shoulders; it has to do with Towel Day, the annual celebration on May 25th as a tribute to the late author Douglas Adams. Quite a scene.
Today is Sunday and my flight home is not until Wednesday (June 4), so there are still more adventures; like Finisterre. Finisterre is about another 90 km west on the coast of Spain. More on this later.
The attached photos are as follows:
Photos 1-8: These are sightseeing photos taken on the walk from O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela. Pictures include a rainbow jut outside of O Pedrouzo, a road marker, 3 scenery shots, the Monte de Gozo statue (stone and metal, with cross on top) that is much taller than it looks in this photo (maybe 30 feet?) and 2 more scenery/roadside shots.
Photo 9: A picture of me at the city limits of Santiago de Compostela.
Photo 10: This is a photo of my first sighting of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
Photo 11: A stone cross of St. James, a marker for pilgrims going to Santiago de Compostela.
Photo 12 & 13: A picture of me waiting in line outside at the Pilgrim Office to get my Compostela, and a photo taken inside.
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| Above: Rainbow jut outside of O Pedrouzo. |
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| Above: Road marker. |
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| Above: Scenery shot. |
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| Above: Scenery shot. |
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| Above: Scenery shot. |
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| Above: Monte de Gozo statue. |
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| Above: Scenery/roadside shot. |
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| Above: Scenery/roadside shot. |
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| Above: Diane at the city limits of Santiago de Compostela. |
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| Above: My first sighting of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (far background). |
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| Above: A stone cross of St. James, a marker for pilgrims going to Santiago de Compostela. |
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| Above: Diane waiting in line outside at the Pilgrim Office to get her Compostela. |
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| Above: Inside at the Pilgrim Office. |
Day 28 (Monday, 5-26-14): Second day at Santiago de Compostela
Written, Monday night (Day 28), at about 11 pm, 5-26-14m from Santiago de Compostela
This morning in Santiago de Compostela we had a luxurious breakfast buffet and later went to the pilgrim’s mass and saw the swinging of the Botafumeiro (a metal container suspended from the ceiling on chains, that burns incense). They swing the Botafumeiro in a huge swinging motion and it produces a lot of smoke. It was quite emotional for me and really marked the end of the pilgrimage for me. The music in the cathedral was heavenly. I got to "hug the saint" (the bust of Saint James), called the "Abrazo del Apostol (Hug the Apostle)." And I saw the tomb of James and his two companions, Anastasius and Theodore
This year is the 800-year anniversary of St. Francis of Assisi’s pilgrimage to Santiago, so I also received a St. Francis Compostela. This one you can get only every 100 years, the next ones won't be available until the year 2114.
Did I mention that I heard in Spain if there are two otherwise equal applicants for one job, the one with the Compostela gets the job? So now I am all set for my next job. :o)
Many of the other pilgrims seem to have PCD, Post Camino Depression.
I am now working on my plans for the rest of my time in Spain (my flight from Madrid is June 4th). I am hoping to work in a trip to the "end of the world," Finisterre. Until the discovery of the Americas, Finisterre was the last outpost of the known world, as it is at the far western part of Spain. I would like to go to the famous lighthouse Faro de Fisterra, one of the most recognized landmarks in Galicia. There is a fire pit there where pilgrims offer up a piece of clothing to be burned as a ritual. I would like to burn something to leave doubt, fear and bad judgment behind, although I tried to leave them at La Cruz de Ferro (the Iron Cross).
I am having one last glass of Galician wine while trying to figure out how to make the Finisterre trip. It is much more complex than I imagined and it may not happen. Boo hoo.
Attached are a few photos from my iPhone 4s from today in Santiago de Compostela:
Photo 1: Me at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
Photo 2: The Botafumeiro inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
Photo 3: Elephant Pilgrim sign outside a building in the Plaza de Cervantes.
Photo 4: Front of the Chapel of Souls Church, the Image is of "souls being purified in the fires Purgatory."
Photo 5: Pensione de Encantada, where I am staying tonight.
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| Above: Diane at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. |
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| Above: The Botafumeiro inside the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. |
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| Above: Elephant Pilgrim sign outside a building in the Plaza de Cervantes. |
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| Above: Front of the Chapel of Souls Church, the Image is of "Souls being purified in the fires Purgatory." |
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| Above: Pensione de Encantada, where Diane stayed this night. |
Day 29 (Tuesday): Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre
Written, Tuesday afternoon (Day 29), at about 5 pm, on the bus back to Santiago de Compostela; 5-27-14 pm
I jumped out of bed this morning and rushed to the bus station for the 8 o'clock bus to Finisterre on Cape Finisterre, only to find out the bus didn't leave until 9 o’clock. My friend made it just in the nick of time. The day started out sunny and the bus ride was beautiful, then it started to rain and never really stopped.
After arriving in Finisterre after the two-and-a-half hour bus ride, the walk to the "end of the earth" where the lighthouse is took another 46 minutes. The "Last Cross" on the Camino, the 0.0 km marker (the place which people once thought was the end of the world) and the lighthouse were cool.
I took 3 "Last Cross" photos and then another one would appear, so I think I got the last one. I've included the last "Last Cross" photo with this email. Cape Finisterre is the final destination for many pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, hence the "Last Cross" marker.
When I was on the southern point of Cape Finisterre, I used the compass on my iPhone to find west as it was not intuitive, what seemed liked west was south. So I took a photo of the vision of the new world (looking west) and a selfie at the "end of the earth."
I'm now on the bus back to Santiago. The bus driver always goes 10 km more than the speed limit. My kind of driver!
We are changing Albergues tonight and I'm not sure I will have Wi-Fi at the new one and I almost out of battery power, so this may be my last chance to send an email for today.
I forgot to mention that I actually received a total of 3 certificates yesterday for doing the Camino de Santiago; they are as follows:
(1) Standard Compostela: The document declaring that you arrived at the tomb of the Apostle, that you walked the last contiguous 100 km and made the journey for religious reasons.
(2) Saint Francis of Assisi Compostela: Available this year to celebrate the 800-year anniversary of St. Francis of Assisi’s pilgrimage to Santiago.
(3) Certificate of Distance: Something new this year. It records the route which the pilgrim walked, the starting point, the amount of kilometers and the date of arrival in Santiago. My starting point was St. Jean Pied de Port in France.
The photos I took today with my iPhone are attached:
(1) Me and the 0.0 km marker
(2) Finisterre Lighthouse
(3) "Last Cross" on the Camino
(4) Looking West towards the New World (the Americas)
(5) Selfie at the "end of the earth"
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| Above: Diane and the 0.0 km marker. |
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| Above: Finisterre Lighthouse. |
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| Above: "Last Cross" on the Camino. |
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| Above: Looking West towards the New World (the Americas). |
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| Above: Selfie at the "end of the earth." |
Subject: Day 30: 4th Day at Santiago de Compostela
Written Wednesday night (Day 30), at about 11:30 pm, in Santiago de Compostela; 5-28-14...
Last night (Tuesday) we stayed at the Pensión Santa Cristina, which is a few blocks from the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela; and we are staying here again tonight (Wednesday) although we have no Wi-Fi.
We slept a little late today, and then had breakfast and did a bit of shopping; quite a dull morning until I went back to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela to take some more photos with my iPhone 4S. Supposedly the original purpose of the swinging of the Botafumeiro (full of burning charcoal and incense) was to be used as a purifying element to combat the crowds that gathered inside the temple. Today it is just a tradition, but with the Apostle’s Anthem being played in the background on an organ, the swinging of Botafumeiro continued to move me.
The Botafumeiro is made of an alloy of brass and bronze, is plated by a very thin layer of silver and has a golden sheen. Sometimes it looks gold in color; sometimes silver, depending on the reflections from the cathedral.
If you would like to watch a video of the swinging of the Botafumeiro there are quite a few online, but you might check this one at <https://vimeo.com/41405497>.
I've had a little extra time in Santiago de Compostela due to my leg injury that I suffered on Day 7 coming out of Irache. To give my leg time to heal, I (along with other "walking wounded") took the bus for a few days in order not to fall behind in my schedule, but the bussing for a few days also put me into Santiago de Compostela earlier than my original plans. There is no part of the French Way that I didn't want to walk, but the stretch along the meseta (plateau in English) part of Spain may have been the best place for a bus ride, as that stretch is miles of flat un-shaded desert-like land, with the path often running parallel to the highway. A lot of pilgrims just skip this part entirely as they consider it boring. As I mentioned in an earlier email, our bus driver agreed we made very good decision as he said the meseta section is indeed long, hot, boring and in traffic part of the time. If I hadn't injured my leg, I'm sure I would have enjoyed this section also.
With my leg problem, there were times when I felt I might not complete my journey to Santiago de Compostela, but a few things on the way lifted my spirits; the rooster crowing in the cathedra at Santo Domingo de la Calzada, meeting a man from my mother's home town and the rainbow jut outside of O Pedrouzo to name just a few.
Attached are a few photos from today:
(1) A picture of the ropes that hold the Botafumeiro and swing it. The men that swing the Botafumeiro are called tiraboleiros and they all wear red robes.
(2) Some of the tiraboleiros swinging the Botafumeiro.
(3) The Botafumeiro swinging.
(4) Another photo of tiraboleiros swinging the Botafumeiro.
(5) A picture of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela taken from my room at the Pensión Santa Cristina.
(6) A picture of the final page of my pilgrim passport.
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| Above: Ropes that hold the Botafumeiro and swing it. |
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| Above: Some of the tiraboleiros swinging the Botafumeiro. |
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| Above: The Botafumeiro swinging. |
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| Above: Another photo of tiraboleiros swinging the Botafumeiro. |
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| Above: A picture of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela taken from Diane's room at the Pensión Santa Cristina. |
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| Above: the final page of Diane's pilgrim passport. |
In the station at Santiago. Views along the way. The trains. I am relieved and sad. Can't figure out my emotions. But that is how emotions are aren't they?
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| Above: Inside the station at Santiago. |
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| Above: Scenery |
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| Above: Train Station in Madrid, Spain. |
August 28, 2014: A few months after the Camino de Santiago journey
I was asked to give a presentation on my Camino de Santiago journey, this was held at the YMCA at 63rd St. and Central Park West in New York City. If interested, you can listen to this presentation at the following URL link, it's about 55 minutes long, and has a few photos tossed in.
https://vimeo.com/105037436
Diane
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